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Dec 15, 2011


Ruby is trained in first level dressage, cross country jumping, western pleasure, trail and MORE!!! She has been there done that and can help teach you how! She has been in professional training all summer and now is ready for her new home!
ASKING only SOLD!!!! price does NOT reflect quality!

Nov 29, 2011


She is a friesian x warmblood, I cant wait to show her next year!


Big news! here is a lovely mare at a BIG BIG discount! Get her in time for Christmas! wouldn't she look cute with a big red bow on her????? price was 1900.....NOW IS ONLY 800!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oct 24, 2011

Miz Mona Lis SSA!

Offered by Sierra Sage Arabians this filly will be 3 in the spring and will be started under saddle soon. She is the daughter of  Da Vinci This gorgeous filly is offered for $5300 before saddle training! get her now at the affordable rate!

Playing around with BEau

Oct 8, 2011

Which bit for you??

When determining what type of bit should be used on your horse you should consider:
  • Whether you will be riding English or western, and if you are competing and what specific discipline you will be competing in.
  • What your riding skill level is.
  • How your horse has been trained.
  • The shape of your horse's mouth.
You should be riding in the mildest bit that still allows you to communicate clearly with your horse. Most horses go very well in some sort of simple snaffle. Sometimes you'll have to try a few bits to find one that your horse is happy in.

Many western style bits are curbs, but a beginner who might still inadvertently balance themselves with their hands can harshly jab their horse's mouth. Of course a snaffle bit can be quite harsh if a rider is heavy handed, but a curb bit with its leverage action will amplify any mistakes that much more. If you feel you must use a curb bit, choose one with the shortest shank you can find. Ideally a curb bit should only be used if your horse has learned all his lessons well in a snaffle bit.
Often riders will resort to a curb bit, or long shanked mechanical hackamore because they don't have enough 'whoa', in a milder bit. If you are having trouble stopping, you would be better off going back to schooling and reinforcing the basics. If a horse is hard mouthed it's because the rider has been riding with inconsiderate hands.
There is nothing wrong with riding in with a curb bit, provided you understand how it works and how to use it. If you are showing western, you'll probably need to ride with some sort of western curb bit. Just remember that when you pull on the reins with a curb bit, your rein aid is amplified because of the leverage action. You will need to learn to ride with very light, considerate hands.
One thing that is sometimes overlooked is the shape of the horse's mouth and dental condition. If you find your horse is having difficulty holding the bit, is lolling his tongue, tossing his head, or stiffening his jaw and poll, it may be because the bit is uncomfortable in its mouth. Some horses have shallow palates, thick tongues or other  conformation that makes it difficult to carry some bits. Overgrown teeth and wolf teeth may interfere with the way the bit sits in the horse's mouth. A vet or equine dentist can help with dentition problems. And it might take some trial and error to find a bit that is comfortable for your horse to carry. Consider a bitless bridle for hard fit horses.
When choosing a bit for a new horse, consider what the horse has been ridden in before. It wouldn't be fair to use a long shanked curb bit on a horse that has only ever been ridden in a snaffle and expect it to understand your aids completely. But if the horse is used to a long shanked curb, you might find the horse doesn't respond well-you might not have enough brakes-in a simple snaffle.
This does not mean you can not make a transition from one type of bit to the other. Horses that are ridden in a curb bit because they have learned to ignore a milder bit can be re-schooled. And if for some reason you want to ride in a curb bit, you can school your horse to understand your aids with your considerate hands.
Trying out different bits can get expensive if you have to buy each one. Either borrow bits to try out, or head to the consignment section of your  tack shop.

Sep 27, 2011

Having a hard time loading??????

Often a horse that starts refusing to load into a trailer can be very difficult to deal with. If you have your own trailer or access to one for a long period of time, here are some ideas for "retraining" the horse to load. I am going to get pretty basic on some things. It's impossible to know the experience level of the person reading this, so it's easier to start from square one. The first thing when dealing with a difficult loader is to remember to stay very quiet and calm (even if your patience is gone--don't let it show!! stay calm externally). Bring your horse as close to the open doorway of the trailer as you can get him...then just stand there...relax, maybe give him some scratches around his ears, a little treat, but just hang around there for a while..10-15 minutes or so--but the one thing important here: keep his head turned towards the open trailer door. Then after hanging around there for a while, get him to move a step or two toward the trailer. If all he moves is one step, Great! If he's real difficult and just leans toward the trailer, then praise him! Then stand there for a few minutes again. Continue doing this. As he gets closer to the open doorway of the trailer, he may become more resistant (or stubborn)...Don't get upset with him. You are trying to convince him going back into this trailer is no big deal! The closer he gets, the steps may get smaller, in fact, you may find at some point he won't, try to just get him to lean towards the trailer--the instant he leans toward the trailer, tell him what a wonderful and smart horse he is in the nicest tone of voice you have--pat his neck and give him a little treat--anything so he knows this is a good thing!! The idea with all this is to really encourage him to move forward toward the trailer. I know this sounds tedious and long and boring, but with a horse who was a good loader and all of a sudden stopped and is now fighting, you really need to make this more pleasant and less scarey, or less of a fight for your horse. I would probably plan on spending a good hour working on this the first time with him. AND, There is a real good chance you won't get him in the trailer during the first, second or even third session of using this. But he will eventually go in for you again!!
When he gets close to the trailer and tries to turn away and walk away from the trailer...DON'T let him--often I see people just sort of "give in" to the horse and circle it away from the trailer and then try loading again. What is the most important thing is FORWARD movement toward the trailer doorway! O.K., Once you have had a few sessions of this and you finally have him where he is almost putting a foot in the trailer..or even has put a foot in the trailer--praise him big time and stop, take him away from the trailer and either put him in his stall or out to pasture..whatever. Then, same thing when you get two feet into the trailer, don't push him to go all the way in unless he wants to. Just let him stand with two feet in the trailer! then back him out and do something else.
When you finally succeed in getting him all the way in, praise him, give him treats, let him stand a few minutes,(DON'T TIE HIM IN THE TRAILER YET!!) then take him out! Then reload a few more times and you may learn a lot more about why he started giving you problems..or you may not--but be patient! I know this sounds like a lot of time and work, and it is, however, when you work with your horse in this way, you should end up with a horse who will walk through fire for you, because you will understand more about what makes him tick and he will develop a great trust in you! Fighting with them to load is very often a self defeating battle of brain and brawn...this is more quiet and more brain!!
It is important that when the horse is in the trailer, he is not tied until the back door is closed. I have seen more disasters, even with good loaders, involving a horse that's tied in the trailer and the door is left open. For some reason, the combination of the trapped feeling of the trailer and the feeling of having the head restrained by tieing will send most horses flying out of the trailer often involving some bumps and bruises to the head and neck from fighting and breaking the tieing mechanism. And of course, this often means another long retraining session to load.
A few tips here for problem haulers: If you have a two horse, straight load trailer (in other words, two horses standing side by side) it's important to understand that the center partition between the two horses should not reach all the way to the floor. If this does reach to the floor ('full partition') it often does not allow the horse room to spread his legs out and balance on the turns and stops while being hauled. Many trailer repair facilities will be able to cut this partition in half so the horse will have the room needed to provide balance. I have seen horses suddenly develop "claustrophobia" about trailering. These horses may or may not load well, but will scramble and move around a lot during the actual ride. My experience with these horses is that they will often haul very well in an open "stock type" trailer. However, this is not often a reality as most of us can't just buy a new trailer to suit our horses! Sometimes the solution is as simple as making sure the center partition only reaches halfway to the floor, or with some horses unhook the center partition and swing it over and attach it to the opposite side of the trailer. This gives the claustrophobic horse the room it feels it needs to be able to stand and balance while the trailer is moving. However, it also means you can only haul one horse at a time!
It is also extremely important to remember to be kind to your horse while hauling. Make your turns as gentle as possible, and prepare for all possible scenarios so you don't have to slam on the brakes causing the horse to lose his balance.
I will address some more of teaching to load in another article soon!
Please always remember SAFETY FIRST around horses. Since loading a horse in a trailer can be dangerous, remember to NEVER wrap any part of the leadrope around your hand or any part of your body! Since the horse may rear it may be a good idea to wear a helmet during this type of training. If the techniques mentioned here prove too stressful for you or your horse, please contact an equine professional for assistance.

How do you ask for the Canter????

 Think inside rein outside leg.....lets break it down......

Inside indirect rein
-will free up the shoulder so that he can pick up the correct lead

Outside supportive direct rein
-to insure that he does not turn to the inside from the rein pressure

Inside supportive neutral leg
-to help him stand up and not lean on the circle

Outside active leg behind the girth
-to activate his hind in to travel diagonally into the inside lead

Drop outside seat
-to help push him into the inside lead and free up the inside back muscles

It is important to have all aids working together at all times because he is not at a place where he automatically knows where to put his feet how you need them to be placed. You want him bending slightly to the inside with his haunches and shoulder on the circle at all times. This helps him move with the most fluid movement and helps him picks up his leads naturally. When traveling on a circle, a horse would never naturally bend to the outside unless they are unbalanced or weak on one side. It is important to teach a horse to be balanced going both directions when they are young so they do not develop any stiffness and should always bend to the inside, just as he does when he is on the longe.

Sep 24, 2011

As promised!

Pictures of Beau!!!! Remember he is for sale!'

Off the Thrifty Equine!

Not to promote or anything but this place is AMAZING! If you are in the Northern NV area you should deffinitly check this place out! They have litterally like a hundred saddles all kinds of tack blankets breast collars brushes and show clothes! Plus pretty much everything else you could want!
Going there today to look for a sheet for my new horse!
Here is a link to their Facebook! Check it out all!

Thrifty Equine on Facebook!

Sep 23, 2011

Genesis Photography

Check out our sister page Genesis Photography!

Cadence's First Horse Show!

Congrats Cady on your AMAZING leadline class on MAX! 
 Cady is so excited for next year! She wants to ride all by herself in walk/jog!

(offered for sale by Sierra sage arabians...check out our sales page for info)



This is Beau,
He is the most recent addition to the  sales barn. I dont know much about him yet. He is IAHA reg, CMK breeding a little over 15hh Chestnut with TONS of chrome! more pictures are coming soon!
FOR SALE! This mare is named Zindy She is an AWESOME english prospect! Registered IAHA. Check out her video for more information. She is under saddle, pictures coming soon.


I recently acquired a new horse! His name is Beau, I will be giving you all more info later but for now what I know is he is a CMK bred Arabian. He is 6yrs old chestnut with four white socks and a blaze. He is only green broke and has a ton of bad habits. I will be starting a video diary about his training and progress. The first video will be coming to you soon! I have to go sign his paperwork and then he is getting a bath! I dont have any good pictures of him yet but have no fear they are definitely coming.

Amazing gelding for sale!

Offered to you by Delores of Sierra Sage Arabians, and Genesis Training! He is 8 years old finished and ready to hit the rated shows! On his first time out he won a unanimous double win in the Western Pleasure Open at a A rated AHA show! He is offered at a reduced price for this year only. His price will continue to increase with further training! Dont miss out......

 Offered by SIERRA SAGE ARABIANS Sales Gelding Max!


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